December 30, 2002

High Peaks

New photos!

About the High Peaks Wilderness

When people hear "Adirondacks" many think "High Peaks" or "Mt. Marcy". This is ironic. The 6,000,000 acre Adirondack Park is the largest state park in the lower 48 states, larger than the state of Connecticut. The High Peaks Wilderness makes up just 192,685 acres (301 sq. miles). The most popular area, around Mt. Marcy, (the Eastern High Peaks) is part of this.

This area has become so popular that it receives over 140,000 visitors annually. So if you're looking for solitude, the High Peaks is no longer the place to find it. The heavy foot traffic is causing serious erosion to trails and the delicate arctic flora on the peaks. This has caused the NY Department of Environmental Conservation to issue strict regulations limiting hiking and camping in the High Peaks.

A lot of this traffic (almost a third) comes from the privately run Adirondak Loj. This facility is owned by the Adirondack Mountain Club. Unfortunately, this conservation organization is contributing to the damage, and profiting from it. Were it not for the Loj, and the paved road leading to it, access to the peaks would be limited to those willing to backpack in. Since backpackers are usually smart enough to carry adequate gear for conditions, this would also cut down on the high number of rescues which DEC rangers perform each year.

Johns Brook Valley

These were taken near the Rangers' Station and old footbridge in October 2001.

looking upstream toward Mt. Marcy a view of the old footbridge some tired hikers
looking upstream below the rangers cabin view of the great range from above the rangers cabin another view of the old footbridge

 

Along the trail to Gothics

These were taken along the trail from the Johns Brook Ranger's cabin to the col between Gothics and Saddleback. The day started out with a pouring rain, just above freezing. After an hour and a half on trail, the rain let up. However, the sun only poked through once in a while and it was cold. The col between the two peaks was particularly frigid, as we were at cloud level and the wind picks up as it is forced between the two peaks.

 

Heart Lake

These two shots provide a sense of scale. The first is from Heart Lake, at the ADK Loj, looking at the McIntyre Range. The second is from the top of Wright Peak, next to Algonquin, looking back at Heart Lake.

McIntyres from Heart Lake Marcy, Colden & the McIntyres

 

McIntyre Range

The next series is my favorite of the lot. Our first night we hiked up the McIntyre Trail (Trail 64) to camp at McIntyre Brook below Wright Peak. You also get an idea of the weather extremes. Thursday night was so cold we slept fully dressed and used several air-activated hand warmers in our sleeping bags. Friday morning was cold, snowy and icy: the tent fly had a coating of ice from condensation and there was snow and black ice on the trail.

McIntyre Brook McIntyre Brook Trail to Wright Peak Trail to Wright Peak Wright Peak

 

Marcy Dam

This last series was shot at Marcy Dam on Saturday, October 5, 1996. While Thursday night was frigid and Friday cold, Saturday was a warm 60 degree day. But after hiking up 1500 feet to Lake Arnold, the temperature dropped 30 degrees.

Wright Colden The Whale

 

Hike Smart!

In April of 1992, an Australian couple set out to traverse Mt. Marcy. The temperature was 60 degrees Fahrenheit when they left Adirondak Loj, so they dressed in cotton sweatshirts and jeans. Once on the mountain they encountered a blizzard. The heavy, wet snow soaked their clothes, weighing them down and cooling them off. Since they didn't have snowshoes the man tried to use his body to force a path by "postholing" through the snow and quickly became hypothermic. Not knowing what to do, his companion tried to keep him warm by wrapping him in a sleeping bag while she went for help. Once in hypothermia, however, the body cannot generate heat to warm itself. She made it back to the Loj, but he did not survive.

Many rescues begin with dayhikers foolishly thinking that a 10 mile hike in the mountains is no big deal. These people frequently find themselves caught in the dark, cold, exhausted and without food or water miles from the trailhead.

If you're planning to visit the High Peaks, plan for inclement weather. If conditions turn out worse than you planned, change your plans. As you can see in these photos, which were taken on Friday and Saturday, October 4th & 5th, 1996, the weather can vary considerably. What's more, while it may be balmy at Marcy Dam, it gets cold fast as you gain elevation. If not properly dressed, a person can become hypothermic in 50 degree weather with a light drizzle.

And my final bit of preaching: DO NOT WEAR COTTON! Cotton clothing sucks up water like a sponge, and once wet will kill you. Wear wool or synthetic hiking clothes, and be sure to bring extra layers in case you inadvertently get caught out after dark (it happens quite a bit in the High Peaks).

Dayhiking Equipment

Carry a small pack with the following:

  • extra clothes (wool or synthetics such as polypropylene, etc.)
  • extra food (dried fruit, nuts, homemade jerky, power bars, etc.—things that have complex carbs and fats for energy)
  • iodine tablets (or a filter) for purifying water
  • extra water
  • compass & trail map (either a USGS quadrangle or an ADK Guidebook or both, not a road map)
  • small flashlight or headlamp and extra batteries & bulb
  • emergency space blanket

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